Edinburgh is not a cheap city, but it is still possible to spend an entire day exploring some of its best locations without paying an entry fee. This itinerary includes Dean Village, the Royal Mile, the National Museum of Scotland and Greyfriars Kirkyard. Together, they offer architecture, history, city views and plenty of the atmospheric little corners that make Edinburgh so interesting.
Begin in Dean Village
Start the morning in Dean Village, a peaceful collection of old stone buildings beside the Water of Leith. Although it is close to central Edinburgh, it feels completely removed from the busiest parts of the city. The river, bridges and tightly grouped historic buildings make it one of Edinburgh’s most photogenic areas.
Take your time walking beside the water and exploring the surrounding streets. It is a gentle beginning before heading into the much livelier Old Town.
Walk the Royal Mile
From Dean Village, make your way towards Edinburgh’s Old Town and the Royal Mile, which runs between Edinburgh Castle and the Palace of Holyroodhouse. You could easily spend hours here without entering a single paid attraction.
The main street is only part of the experience. Look for the narrow closes and passageways leading away between the old buildings — these reveal hidden courtyards, stairways and fragments of the city that are easy to miss when concentrating only on the shops. St Giles’ Cathedral is free to look inside, and the Heart of Midlothian mosaic set into the cobbles marks the site of the old Tolbooth prison — tradition has it that spitting on it brings good luck (it’s cheerfully gross, everyone does it).
You can wander through the closes, watch street performers, browse the shops and enjoy the architecture without spending anything. Some of the closes contain steep steps, cobbles and uneven surfaces, so comfortable shoes are useful.
National Museum of Scotland
The National Museum of Scotland is free to enter, although some temporary exhibitions may have a separate charge. The museum contains collections covering Scottish history, archaeology, science, technology, natural history and cultures from around the world. You could spend several hours inside, which makes it particularly useful when Edinburgh’s weather becomes uncooperative.
Even people who do not usually devote much time to museums should go in for one very specific reason: the rooftop terrace. Take the lift towards the upper floors and then follow the signs to the viewing terrace. From there, you get wide views across Edinburgh, including Edinburgh Castle and the surrounding city skyline. It is one of the best free viewpoints in Edinburgh and surprisingly easy to overlook.
Greyfriars Kirkyard
Greyfriars Kirkyard is directly behind the museum, making it a logical next stop. The graveyard contains elaborate monuments, old vaults and some of Edinburgh’s most atmospheric stonework, and it’s also connected to important events in Scottish religious history — the National Covenant was signed at Greyfriars in 1638, and part of the grounds was later used to imprison Covenanters.
You will also find the memorial to Greyfriars Bobby, the Skye Terrier traditionally said to have guarded his owner’s grave for many years. It is an atmospheric place to wander, particularly if you enjoy old cemeteries, local stories and historic architecture.
Circus Lane
If you’re driving or have a car nearby, take a detour along Circus Lane — one of the prettiest streets in Edinburgh, all cobbles and mews cottages tucked away from the main roads. It costs nothing to walk or drive along and it’s easy to miss if you’re not looking for it.
More Free Things to See
If you have extra time, a few more spots worth adding to a free Edinburgh day: Arthur’s Seat (an extinct volcano and the bigger climb, with sweeping views), Calton Hill (a gentler climb with its own great views and monuments), and Princes Street Gardens (free public gardens sitting right below the Castle).
Final Thoughts
This is a proper full day rather than a collection of minor filler activities. Dean Village offers quiet river scenery, the Royal Mile provides the noise and theatre of Edinburgh’s Old Town, the museum gives you several floors of free exhibits and one of the city’s best viewpoints, Greyfriars adds centuries of history, and Circus Lane rounds it off with one of the city’s prettiest corners. Not bad for an admission total of precisely nothing. And, after a day in this beautiful city, guarantee you will fall in love with her. She really is special.
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